Two lovely, relaxing weeks away. We travelled over by ferry, which takes 17 hours, overnight. Irish Ferries have one ferry on the route, and it’s due for replacement at the end of the year which is a Good Thing. Some parts of our cabins had been repaired with duct tape, the boat had obviously had several owners as there were signs up with the old Stena line logo, and there was a frustrating lack of places to sit. It didn’t really matter though, because we were both so tired, and the crossing was so rough, that we spent to whole time in bed, being tossed* around in the dark. I don’t really mind the sea, so I read for most of the way. The other good thing is that we were able to take our car over, which meant we could bring over all the stuff we wanted and not have to worry about weight allowances or pointless security checks. The war against moisture’s not being fought at sea.

Our first week was spent in Northern Brittany, in a little gite in a national park.

It was lovely and I really couldn’t recommend the place (Kergudon House) enough – the owners had really thought everything through, the gite was lovely, the welcome bottle of wine much appreciated, and there was heaps of really useful information on what to do in the area.
The weather was much the same as Ireland for our first couple of days, so we headed out for a 14km walk from an excellent walking book leant to us by the gite owners. It was quite a hike in the wind and occasional rain. There was a small mention in the book about being careful on the wooden duckboards over the marshes.

We perhaps should have paid a tiny bit more attention to this. A good couple of km was along foot wide wooden duckboards running straight through the middle of a massive, massive marsh that had been rained on all summer. Think Lord of the Rings. I wouldn’t have been surprised to look down and see the bodies of dead kings looking back up at me. Local legends say that the marshes are the gateway to hell, and that washerwomen ply their trade along them, trying to take people to hell. The marshes were followed by a road walk through a couple of small hamlets, and then a final hike up a big hill, to the chapel of Mt St Michel. I was shattered at the end, but a nice hot bath sorted me out.
We went further afield over the rest of the week, spending a lovely day on the Crozon Penninsula,

popping to Brest**, and wandering around Quimper, a lovely old town with plenty of character.
Our second week was spent in the south of Brittany, in Carnac. For this week we’d rented a tent on a campsite – quite different from the peaceful luxury of the previous week!

Campsite life forces you into a routine of relaxation – everything takes longer, so rushing around just isn’t really an option – washing up becomes an event – taking the dishes and everything else needed up to the communal washing up sinks, and washing and drying alongside everyone else. Going to the toilet at night involves putting on warm clothes and shoes and using a torch. Being surrounded by families was mostly nice – catching snippets here and there made me smile and brought me back to how I think I might have been as a kid – really earnest about some things, and a wee bit whiney and annoying sometimes too. It also meant that at times we were witness to some not-great parenting, which was, well, frustrating.
We spent a lot of time in Carnac just sitting around, reading, writing, knitting, exploring a little bit. There are loads of megaliths around Carnac – fields of thousands of standing stones in alignment, dolmens, and a passage tomb just behind the campsite. It’s a strange feeling, standing on a passage tomb, next to a large standing stone that’s been there for thousands of years, watching the full moon rise.



I love France. It might be because we’ve both been there so many times, and will go back again so many more, that there’s little pressure to see everything and experience everything, so we could just get on with relaxing – spending an afternoon sitting in a bar by the river with an excellent coffee, having crepes and citron presse by the sea, having a leisurely breakfast of coffee and croissants with apricot jam by the tent.
After Carnac we had one night to spend before we got back on the boat for the journey home, so we headed up to Mont St Michel for a lovely relaxing evening by the simply stunning abbey

then visitied the Normandy beaches on the way to Cherbourg.
A super holiday.
~~
*You, at the back, stop sniggering.
** Yes, ok, you can snigger at that. I did.